DC-DC Charger Options Comparison

Submitted: Friday, Dec 03, 2010 at 15:43
ThreadID: 82830 Views:11953 Replies:3 FollowUps:5
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I have read quite a few posts on various fora regarding the best DC-DC charger.
Whether something is a good solution depends on your circumstances and how you intend to use it.
Here are my thoughts so far in an attempt to pull together some Pros/Cons for general consumption and info on some of the available products.
If the thread doesn't go too far off track or degenerate I will pull in into a spreadsheet later.

I think sometimes it is assumed that everyone has a Landcruiser or similar with stacks of engine power.
We previously had a 1996 Forester and just got the diesel Santa Fe.
With a smaller engine car you actually notice the additional load on the alternator - especially towing up a hill...
The other thing I have noticed is that the new Santa Fe ECU actually lowers alternator voltage when accelerating and increases alternator voltage when stopping - I read in the US service manual that it does this for marginal gains in fuel efficiency. Measured at the cig lighter I get as low as 13V.
Weight is another issue that is sometimes neglected in pros/cons.
For a camper trailer mounting location is an issue also. Put it in the toolbox and it will get hotter due to poor ventilation. Put it under the side of the trailer and it be ventilated but exposed to dust and water...

With this in mind, some of the benefits of a DC-DC charger MAY be:
1. Limits alternator draw.
2. Limits battery current (for smaller battery systems or parallel charging).
3. Prevents back-feed of current from aux battery back to ECU managed battery (ie doesn't interfere with ECU).
4. Allows a car with ECU managed alternator voltage to get to absorption charge voltage and to maintain that voltage.
5. Compensate for additional voltage drop in the cabling into the DC-DC charger (however you should try to minimise losses in cabling as far as practiucal anyway).
6. Reasonably simple installation.

Issues with DC-DC chargers MAY be:
1. When connected in parallel to other charging (eg solar) there is no co-ordination between chargers - if you can set charge voltages slightly lower than the solar charger this may be overcome to some extent.
2. As discussed already the DC-DC charger does not know battery current and therefore either goes off time or output current or adapative algorithm (usually time in bulk charge and/or discharge volts?).
3. Possibly more expensive and prone to failure than something unsophisticated like a solenoid relay?

I have a camper trailer and planning a setup with 2 x 135W panels on top of the Santa Fe, 2 x 75Ah AGM in the camper and want a method of "boosting" the charging from the panels if necessary.

Here are the DC-DC chargers I have considered and some comments on each (alphabet order - IP is protection from dust/fingers and water - wiki it! "no IP" below just means not suitable for unprotected).
I haven't included efficiency as it is variable over input and output conditions and not measured to a comparable standard (ie virtually useless IMO).
Also haven't gone into the gory details of input/output protection, isolation etc.
Warranty would also be a good addition.
Please feel free to comment on accuracy or add anything extra.

ABR Sidewinder SDC-1120 (~$???, 1.4kg, 20A, no IP, 30mA off, no temp comp, batt type sel, temp ctrl fan)
Can operate as a constant voltage power supply (13.2/13.5/13.8). Couldn't find out if this is still available.

ABR Sidewinder SDC-1130 (~$250, 1.9kg, 30A, no IP, 30mA off, no temp comp, batt type sel, temp ctrl fan)
Can operate as a constant voltage power supply (13.2/13.5/13.8).

Arrid TwinCharge BCTC20 (~$, 0.6kg, 20A, no IP?, ?mA off, no temp comp, no batt sel?, fan)
Can't seem to find an online manual or detailed specs for this unit. Lots of people have them though so it is strange.

CTEK D250S Dual (~$400, 0.7kg, 20/16A, IP65, 4mA off, temp comp, no batt type sel, fanless)
Takes DC and MPPT solar panel input and can use both at same time but not in MPPT mode. Can output 20A but CTEK Sweden have indicated it will derate to ~16A @ 40degC ambient. Can parallel 2 units for double the output. Adaptive absorp charge time. Can use a 12VDC power supply as the input as a cheap mains charger (ideally ~16VDC power supply for max efficiency). Can also add a SmartPass unit to increase initial bulk charge current (up to 80A).

GSL MCB12-25 (~$???, 1.4kg, 25A, no IP, ?mA off, no temp comp, batt sel, fan)
Not much info available.

Philippi LMB 12 (~$???, 2kg, 100A, IP21, ?mA off, temp comp, batt sel, temp ctrl fan)
Not sure if you can buy this yet. Has optional remote display. I think you can select maximum amps also. Has remote sense for alternator and battery voltage and for alternator temp.

Projecta DC20 (~$???, 2.2kg, 15/20A, IP55?, 10mA off, no temp comp, no batt type sel, fanless)
End of absorp at charge current <3A.

Ranox - not available anymore?

Redarc BCDC1220 (~$450, 0.45kg, 20A, IP55?, 5mA off, no temp comp, batt type sel, fanless)
Output derates at higher ambient but with adequate ventilation it should be full output at 40degC. Not sure how absorp charge is ended.

Redarc BMS1215 (~$1550, 2.4kg, 15A, no IP, ?mA off, temp comp, batt type sel, fanless)
Not just a DC-DC charger. Also does AC and solar MPPT charging. Controls end of absorp charge on battery current not time. Also has a display that you can hook up on the camper or in your towing vehicle with battery SoC and history. Unfortunately limited to 15A output (couldn't confirm if it did this in 40degC ambient). Too small for me, but could suit a Gas fridge setup nicely. Only allows charge from one input at a time.

Sterling Power BBW1220 (215Euro, 2/3kg?, 20A, IP68, ?mA off, temp comp, batt type sel, fanless?)
Couldn't get much info on this one. Sterling temperature specs seem very good.

Sterling Power BB1250 (342Euro, 2/3kg?, 50A, no IP, 3mA? off, temp comp, batt type sel, temp ctrl fans)
Adaptive end of absorp charge based on time to reach absorp voltage. Remote display option. Sterling temperature specs seem very good.

Regards,
Mike
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Reply By: Lex M (Brisbane) - Friday, Dec 03, 2010 at 16:01

Friday, Dec 03, 2010 at 16:01
Brilliant information Mike, thanks.

"CTEK D250S Dual (~$400, 0.7kg, 20/16A, IP65, 4mA off, temp comp, no batt type sel, fanless)
Takes DC and MPPT solar panel input and can use both at same time but not in MPPT mode."

Have you any more info on this "can not use both..." restriction please.



AnswerID: 437705

Follow Up By: Pug8 - Friday, Dec 03, 2010 at 23:21

Friday, Dec 03, 2010 at 23:21
The CTEK CAN use both the Solar input AND the DC from say an alternator at the same time - but in this mode it will not track the MPP of the solar panels.
It will operate the panels at roughly the same voltage as the alternator is supplying and this is unlikely to be close to the Max Power Point (MPP).
Of course, even if it is using both input sources it will not be able to supply more than its 20A output limit - so MPP is not so important in this case.
My feeling is that if you want say 20A from the alternator and an extra 15A from some panels you would use a separate DC-DC and a solar reg in parallel and operate in some way that would allow one to dominate the charging (simplest would be to just turn one off when you get to absorp charge mode).
An interesting use of the CTEK would be to use 2 in parallel with both units fed by alternator and a solar panel each.
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FollowupID: 709333

Reply By: ABR - SIDEWINDER - Friday, Dec 03, 2010 at 16:55

Friday, Dec 03, 2010 at 16:55
Hi Mike

This chart helps understand IP ratings as every product has some form of IP rating.

The ABR DC-DC 20A unit is due for production next year, we started with the 30A unit first 2 years ago.

Image Could Not Be Found
AnswerID: 437708

Follow Up By: Pug8 - Friday, Dec 03, 2010 at 23:39

Friday, Dec 03, 2010 at 23:39
Thanks for adding the IP chart.
Where I put "no IP" was for units where the IP was not specified but it was obvious it was not suitable for "outdoor" or "weatherproof" installation - ie it needed to be in an enclosure to protect it from dust and rain.
Thanks for the info on the 20A unit availability.
Can the 30A unit supply the full 30A at its rated max ambient of 40degC? Will it derate above 40degC or shut down on overtemp?
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FollowupID: 709334

Follow Up By: ABR - SIDEWINDER - Saturday, Dec 04, 2010 at 10:15

Saturday, Dec 04, 2010 at 10:15
Current limiting starts at 68deg internal temperature, the fan is good at keeping it below this. In test we can run the unit at 29.8A 14.2V continuously at 25deg with no limiting, block the fan and the current halves within a few mins, unblock the fan and the current reverts after about 3 mins.

Hope this helps, every installation is different, cable size and location also play a big role in unit temperature.

Note: Being fan cooled it has ventilation holes so is not waterproof. We also do not recommend mounting it in the engine bay.

Regards

Derek
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FollowupID: 709374

Reply By: _gmd_pps - Friday, Dec 03, 2010 at 22:28

Friday, Dec 03, 2010 at 22:28
You are missing the Sterling BBC12150 unless you called it BB1250
I purchased the BBC121250 in Germany for 286 E and a remote control for 98 Euro. Shipping was 55 Euro and for me this is the BEST you can buy by a mile ..
I have the manuals and everything but it's all online also

have fun
gmd
AnswerID: 437739

Follow Up By: Pug8 - Saturday, Dec 04, 2010 at 00:08

Saturday, Dec 04, 2010 at 00:08
I only looked at units around the 20-30A output mark - but some larger and smaller ones slipped past my guard ;)
Regards the Stirling Power units I went off the web-site and also their published RRP list:
Sterling Power RRP 2010 - Euro
Is the one you have a 50A unit? I think BBC121250 means 12V in 12V out 50A? On the price list this is just listed as BB1250 but I am confused as to what the difference is.
Does one of these match your unit?:
Sterling Power Battery to Battery Chargers
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FollowupID: 709339

Follow Up By: _gmd_pps - Saturday, Dec 04, 2010 at 01:41

Saturday, Dec 04, 2010 at 01:41
yep thats the one .. hmmm they call it bb1250 there
oh well .. its the same thing 50Amp with remote control.
My AGMs take the full 50 amp load current when I drained them a bit with my radios ...
It's reasonably big but extremely well built with 3 fans, but runs very cool even under full load.
have fun
gmd
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FollowupID: 709344

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